Making Trousers for Men & Women: A Multimedia Sewing Workshop by David Coffin

Author:David Coffin [Coffin, David]
Language: eng
Format: azw3
Publisher: Creative Publishing International
Published: 2011-01-04T05:00:00+00:00

STITCHING THE DOUBLE WELTS (CROSS-SECTION VIEW)

Lift the garment layer to secure the ends (left) and the top and bottom (right) of the welted opening.

Secure the lower welt’s lower edge only to the pocketing. The stitching line is shown in red.

ADDING A FACING

If you’re adding a pocket flap, you don’t also need a facing (at least that’s my opinion; add one if you like), so you can proceed to page 72 to make the flap. If you’re not adding a flap, now’s the time to position the facing inside the pocket behind your welts.

On the selvage of the fabric, if possible, cut a rectangle the length of the welts and about 2 inches (5.1 cm) wide to make the facing. Position the rectangle face down over the turned welts as shown in the top photo. The selvage edge of the lower welt is toward the bottom of the garment, and the upper, cut edge of the facing extends beyond the welt opening by at least ½ inch (1.3 cm).

Fold the pocketing fabric up over the welts and facing to its finished position. Mark the fold with a crease or with notches. Then pin the top layer of the folded pocketing to the facing, as shown in the bottom photo. (Note: The pocketing in the photo is abnormally shortened in this sample.)

Unfold the pocketing and secure both of the facing’s long edges to it. Because this stitching will be on the hidden side of the pocket, it doesn’t matter what bobbin thread you use, or whether you stitch all the way to the pocketing edges. Now you’re ready to form and turn the bags, as described on page 50. When that’s done, proceed with the steps on page 73.

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